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The origins and process of Beeralu lace weaving, a disappearing ancient craft

Photo credits- SME-Dickwella Project By Divisional Secretariat of Dickwella

Written by AMULYA MISRA for THE DESIGN COLLECTIVE 

Beeralu is an intricate form of lace weaving that is now on the verge of being forgotten. This age-old Sri Lankan tradition, commonly known as bobbin lace making, is being kept alive in villages on the southern coast of the island. 

The history of the craft

The exact origins of this intricate weaving technique are a little uncertain. The beginning of the craft form could be traced back to the 16th Century when the island was under the Portuguese. In development of the craft, the Dutch are said to have been contributors as well. Its name, Beeralu, is derived from the Portuguese word “bilro” which means bobbin while “renda” is a Portuguese word for lace. This is one of the reasons why the Portuguese has been credited with introducing Beeralu lace-making in Sri Lanka.

However, it is worth noting that in Peninsular Malaysia and the Indonesian archipelago, lace is also known locally as “renda”. When the Portuguese settled in Malacca and Indonesian Moluccas archipelago, they were believed to have introduced this extraordinarily laborious craft. It wasn’t until the arrivals of Malays from Indonesia and the Malay region, that variants of crochet work and beeralu lace weaving were developed in the region. About 600 years ago, the craft was highly esteemed by the royals. Thus, weaving beeralu was a way to earn money for the women in villages. 

The process of weaving

First, the pattern of the lace has to be hand-drawn on graph paper by the weaver. Then, it is marked with round head pins and wrapped around a lace pillow. Following that, the weaver takes several lengths of thread and wounds it around the wooden bobbins. Lastly, the threads are braided or woven around the pins to form knots in the required pattern which results in a finished piece.

As the process of Beeralu weaving is an arduous and lengthy one, it is slowly disappearing from the country. Due to this, the authenticity and quality of the Beeralu lace are unmatched with machine-cut ones.

The future of Beeralu lace weaving

The process of weaving is certainly fascinating to watch. It does require a lot of skill, time and effort on the part of the weaver. Thus, it has been a sought after sight by many tourists and art enthusiasts around the world. Tours of Beeralu lace making centres are wildly popular and thus have been crucial in sustaining this dying craft. 

In today’s world the preservation of ancient art forms takes precedence. Therefore, there has been a growing movement of designers and businesses shining a light onto this craft. Many high fashion labels employ women in villages to produce Beeralu lace. These developments prove that with a little help from the industry, the government and people, there is a future for this craft and the local artisans who practice it. 

If you’re looking for a product with details of Beeralu weaving, we have a few suggestions from some of our favourite TDC brands including Aaryaa, Himashi, Navya, Gandhara, Isle of Rataa 

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